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Blue Ridge Industrial Hygiene, Inc. |
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The Mold Solution for Do-It-Yourselfers |
Step 1—Find the Mold |
Step 2—Fix the Moisture Problem |
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1. If something is leaking, fix it! 2. If condensation is forming, insulate the item properly! 3. If moisture is entering from outside, stop it! Be careful how you fix condensation or moisture intrusion problems. It is easy to make your moisture problem worse! Contractors and do-it-yourselfers alike make common mistakes that cause mold… in fact, building codes sometimes require things that actually cause moisture problems (such as vents in crawl spaces)! For detailed, unbiased advice, check out the Building Science Corporation or Building America website. These guys are world-renowned experts. |
Step 3—Get Rid of the Mold |
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In general, special precautions must be followed during these steps to ensure the safety of the people removing the mold and the building occupants. At a minimum, particulate-filtering respirators, latex or other similar gloves, and eye protection must be worn, and dust & mold spores must be controlled. An experienced professional can help you decide what level of protection is appropriate for your specific case. 1. Remove all mold-contaminated & water-damaged porous materials (sheetrock, ceiling tiles, OSB, etc.). Replace with non-damaged, clean materials. Carpeting can sometimes be saved if the mold was on the top surface only, depending on the health of the building’s occupants and the extent of mold and water damage. 2. Thoroughly clean mold-contaminated non-porous materials (concrete, ceramic tiles, etc). Soap and water are usually all that is needed. See “To Kill or Not to Kill” for information on biocides and fungicides. Despite what people who want you to buy their fancy cleansers will tell you, recent studies show the most effective fungicide is still a mixture of 1 part bleach mixed in 10 parts water; this has been found to not only kill the spores but to partially deactivate the dead spore material (which is also an allergen). 3. Semi-porous materials (solid wood lumber, plywood, etc.) are a judgment call, depending on the extent of damage, the purposed served by the building material, and its location. When these materials can be saved, they should be thoroughly cleaned, sanded or wire-brushed, and possibly sealed with an antifungal coating. |
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1. Look for obvious signs of mold growth (for example, stains on wall paper, discolored or oddly textured areas on sheetrock and popcorn ceilings, or a strong musty smell). 2. Look for signs of moisture problems (such as damp or discolored building materials). A professional will have special equipment that helps find materials that may not be visibly damp. If you find the water, you will find the mold. 3. Look for hidden mold. This is usually best done by “destructive testing,” in other words, removing small sections of building materials so the interstitial area can be viewed. A professional will have mirrors and other tools to keep the size of the holes to a minimum. Sometimes air or other types of sampling can be done instead of destructive testing. |
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Please don’t waste your money with do-it-yourself “mold testing kits” like the ones sold at the Lowe’s in Boone. They simply don’t tell you anything useful. They will always find mold in the air, but they won’t tell you anything about where it might be living. And those kinds of tests would completely miss many kinds of mold, including stachybotrys (“black mold”), whose spores tend not to be easily airborne. If testing is needed, hire a trained, experienced professional who will follow the latest guidance from AIHA, ACGIH, EPA, HUD, OSHA, and NIOSH. |
For Some Good Advice...This article on the This Old House website is a terrific source of practical and scientifically valid advice on mold and allergens in the home! http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/interiors/article/0,16417,218663-1,00.html |
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The High Country’s Solution to Environmental Health & Safety |
